Are auto belays safe reddit. I wasn’t a huge fan.

Are auto belays safe reddit. The lines don't hold slack so there is no more force from falling then the intentional lowering process Reply reply More repliesMore replies Mysterious-Tie7039 • Only one of the 4 climbing gym in my city has them, they have 3 auto-belays and they are always easy routes, so basically they don't exist for me. if you can make the trek to Fort Lauderdale, you can also go to Jan 6, 2023 · Get essential tips and guidelines for climbing on an auto-belay system, ensuring safety, and great customer experiences in climbing gyms. There's a world of difference in terms of how 'safe' one might feel on top rope depending on how the belayer handles the rope. Reply reply Home Popular r/ClimbingCircleJerk Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour MembersOnline upvotes comments r/ClimbingCircleJerk Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour MembersOnline upvotes comments r We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Edgeworks removed them a few years back I think (there was an infamous fall at their Tacoma location but fairly sure that climber didn’t clip in) but it’s unfortunate the accidents are casting a long shadow over auto belays. If you fall just use your V15 parkour bouldering skills to roll out. Apr 24, 2023 · The auto belay provides a controlled descent using magnets, centrifugal force, or hydraulics as a braking mechanism. Auto Belay Reddit. May 28, 2021 · Grasp auto-belays' benefits in climbing: no belayer needed, ensuring safety, independence, and accessibility for climbers of all levels. Enter the auto-belay, a specialized device common in many gyms that takes the place of a real live person on the other end of the rope. In through nose!!! Learning to manage fatigue on the wall, so finding good rest spots, shaking out. If you have auto belays you could always practice taking falls. My knees are sore after which is good since they’re reknitting themselves I would theorize that a 50lb mass could pull down the auto-belay, considering a True Blue auto-belay has a minimum climber weight of 45lbs. Typically, using the auto belay requires a really quick 2-5 minute orientation and demonstration and then you’re set to go. I agree that auto belays are generally safe if used correctly, but many gyms do not have them for liability reasons (my current gym doesn’t and the gym I went to prior to moving down here didn’t have them either), as there have been cases of people falling and getting injured or dying because they did not clip in. I also kept getting smacked in the face and chest with the carabiner (is that what it’s called?). hard based on the amount of rope it's put out, but it won't know about any other hazards on a route. . Won’t give up though… will go back on the weekend again, eventually I’d be good. An auto belay device provides climbers with a safe, simple, and accessible option for climbing routes that would usually require a rope, without the need for a belay partner. . During my first climbing lesson, the instructor explained how the auto belays work. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Thanks for the help! Feb 8, 2024 · An informal post on a climbing forum titled "Auto-belay Accident" is the most perfect, concise way to tell a reader, they are going to read about a climbing accident that occurred on an auto-belay. I think it’s natural to fear auto belays, especially as they feel so alien when you’ve been used to having a partner belay you. In September, after a four year long legal battle over an auto belay accident, Vertical World publicly announced a shocking $6m settlement. Bouldering laps at low grade. I tried to come up with a better analogy, but the best I could do is: It's like riding a tandem bike by yourself and only having control of the front brakes. While this is much harder to see with a casual visual inspection of the tie in loops. I trust the system. The conversation to have is whether it's worth giving up the lead terrain to have auto-belays with adequate gates, not whether auto-belays are worth people's lives. Please read the sidebar on old. The use of auto belays has been a hotly debated topic in the indoor climbing industry for the last 10 years. I need a straight answer here from someone who knows what they're talking about, everywhere I go I see tons of people saying it's not safe while tons also saying it is completely and absolutely safe. An auto belay device provides climbers with a safe, simple, and accessible option for climbing routes that would usually require. How is this even related to Auto-Belays if he never clipped into the Auto-Belay? Sounds like he just climbed up a wall without any protection, near an Auto-Belay. Warming up properly (keep intensity low for your first few climbs, if you're pumping in your first few climbs you need to pick easier grades). Even if they keep you on a short leash so you don't take a big fall it should help. I purposefully do not watch them because I still use auto-belays for training and I don't want to freak myself out, so no I don't keep tab of those videos, but I've seen a few pop up on Reddit. As somebody who uses auto belay a LOT, this was a bit worrying to hear but I‘m wondering if this 541 votes, 190 comments. I will actually verbally say these to myself to make sure I’m checking each thing especially on an auto belay where you don’t have anyone to double check for you. Autobelays are virtually theoretically effectively hypothetically less safe than a standard belay according to statistics. Jan 4, 2021 · Auto-belay devices may feature one of the following systems: magnetic or friction. I hope this post isn't too redundant. While they offer many benefits, there are also drawbacks to using an auto belay. Any gym owners or anyone who owns any TRUBLUE auto belays, they have/are just about to, issue a recall notice. Bend Rock Gym needs to provide information about why this happened, including the specific mode of failure. I'm not scared of falling, I'm scared specifically of the height itself. Annual service is an essential part of auto belay ownership, and buyers should be wary of auto belays with less stringent requirements. And yes we are scared of falling. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. It’s interesting a lot of Seattle gyms seem to have issues with auto belays. a belay device isn’t going to make it safe to climb with someone who can have an unexpected seizure. In fact I sometimes do an entire training sess of just high falls like that. It's clear you have your mind made up and are just preaching. I've never used an auto belay, but I'd imagine your just clipping into a locking 'biner on the end of the rope. Redpoint is really friendly and has everything- boulders, lead/top ropes and auto-belays and never seems to be too busy when I go. Last but not least, climbing will always need a climbing buddy (except for auto-belays, which not every place has), bouldering can be done solo. If your not focused, don’t climb. randomly letting go or pushing off the wall. Anecdotal evidence, but the only time I have been dropped (luckily indoors and not super high up) was by a belayer who was uncomfortable operating a grigri and fucked up. Although climbing gyms have different policies, all share one key instructional ingredient: clip the auto-belay into the belay loop of your harness. Learning to breathe deeply and slowly while climbing. Alternative to auto-belay devices for at-home climbing wall? Building an outdoor climbing wall. PD also can't be out climbed even by the fastest speed climber and it has a secondary backup mechanical break in case the primary fails. It is an autobelay failure because the autobelay doesn't have a partner check like a traditional belay system. There are several ways that vertical endeavors makes auto belays a fun and exciting aspect of I climb frequently at the edge in Miami. Anyone have experience or resources on if auto belay is safe while pregnant with a full body harness? Compared to top rope I… Climbing on the auto belays will definitely help you build endurance. If you're outdoors and your belayer weighs significantly less than you have them tie off to a tree or boulder or place a piece of gear protecting upward motion. The device enables a climber to ascend indoor routes on a top rope but without the need for a human belaying partner. Since I know that gravity and magnetism are fundamental forces of nature that simply don't fail, it really helped me with my confidence to trust in the device. 1. Our family went to Altitude (an indoor trampoline park) recently and I was surprised to find they had rock climbing walls with auto-belays. Climbing Auto Belay Reddit. Rock climbing is like the beginning of life, depending on whether you have an auto belay, there is no highest point, the webbing is always 20m Generally reserved for aid climbing. It probably wouldn’t take long to meet people to trade belays with either! I will say that you’ll face the fear of falling in bouldering no matter what, until you face it. We may not want to get interrupted mid swing. The belay loop is designed to handle metal gear and some are even built to make it visually obvious when the loop is wearing out. DC climbing recs? I am traveling to DC solo and staying near the national mall. They’re generally considered aid since they literally pull you up the wall (but not as much aid having a partner use an ATC). They are designed for this, and used in many gyms. Locked post. Inside the device, the lanyard wraps around a rotor that features movable magnetic arms. How does a solo climber go about finding climbing partners? Is it normal to just ask people to belay you who are at the gym with other people? Do people do that? Hip belay requires both hands on the rope, and the rope is redirected around the waist. I have been climbing for about 2 years, but only bouldering and top roping indoors, and I have only ever used a typical ATC belay device, which I am very comfortable with. Love y’all. Unlike magnetic, a friction auto belay uses a drum brake, similar to a parking brake in a car. The way the Perfect Descent auto belays work is also based off the weight of the climber, but due to the coiled spring, heavier people descent faster, since they're putting more force on the coil, and lighter people descent slower. Feel free to jump in and ask for a belay. Also, it’s totally ok to ask climbers for feedback, I still do this with new people despite 5+ years of lead belaying outside as everyone is different. I wasn’t a huge fan. Maintenance requirements and servicing costs can vary greatly by product. I had a hard time finding any information out there from actual contractors who work with them and their experiences when I was deciding to accept a contract with them. The whole point of the auto belay is to walk up, clip yourself in (easy to do, it’s only two clips) and get going. When you're using a carabiner, whether that be to belay another, rappel, or clip into an auto-belay you don't have to worry about friction between the metal and your harness, so it is appropriate to clip into your belay loop; that's why it's there. A friend of mine, who is an experienced trad climber had an auto belay fall when thought he'd clipped in but now thinks he must have put it on the belay loop and not totally through it, so the gate didn't close. However, after a few falls I became more anxious and no longer wanted my belayer to use an unassisted belay device in case he/she fainted That is one of the areas where auto belays can really shine. Just wondering what everyone else’s Wow, I always assumed auto belays were designed to fail safe and lock the rope or something, not just drop a climber! Using a throwaway acct to avoid alarming people I know. it’s a great gym with some good route setting. Auto belay is perfect for any solo gymgoer who wants to get stronger. B. com/r/asknyc before posting since new reddit does not allow space for rules/links/guidance. The problem is that my fear of heights is irrational, not logical. The climber needs to unclip the sheet to clip in to the auto belay, the sheet falls to the ground uncovering the starting holds. We first responded by removing our Perfect Descent auto belays (Perfect Descent was a defendant in I have only gone bouldering and today I tried auto belay for the first time. You can "take a good fall" many (hundreds, thousands?) times on auto belays. It seems almost everything here is owned by touchstone who doesn’t use them. H18 has an old school gym vibe with top ropes, auto belays and bouldering (& lead at certain locations) The quality of gym is not always the best but you will definitely meet some amazing people there. Hangar 18 & Long Beach Rising. i didn't buy it for that purpose or anything, but i had some twisters and some autolockers and i put the twisters on my slings for going in direct and used autos for belaying. I started working as a contractor for Belay doing virtual assistant work in early February 2023. Jan 15, 2024 · The best way to eliminate the risk of auto-belay injuries and deaths is to remove auto-belays from our gyms altogether. Do you have any questions about auto belays at The Arc? We explain more, detail the rules of use and share an important safety video. But other times we are relaxing and more casually climbing. Would it be safe to hang a True Blue auto belay system using a QuickDraw? Friction Braking Auto Belays Like magnetic auto belays, friction auto belays hang on the top of the wall and use a retraction spring to take in webbing as a climber ascends. One caused a ground fall from ~25 feet up, one instance was caught and after a couple tugs the system caught and the climber was able to be safely lowered and the third instance resulted in a down climb to safety. My recommendation is to just solo the route. Putting the 'biner through both the leg loop and the waist loop would tri-load the 'biner, and placing it only through the waist loop could risk a back injury. We hope our efforts help keep at least one of you safe. Many climbing gyms will probably not have auto belays for the majority of routes. Reattach the carabiner to the belay gate or designated attachment point How to Become an Auto Belay Pro Now that you're familiar with the basic operation of an auto belay you can take the next step toward becoming an auto belay master. Feb 22, 2020 · Understanding auto belays can be a little unerving if you've not used one before, we cover how they work and how to use them safely. reddit. I have only gone bouldering and today i tried auto belay for the first time. I will discuss why this might not be the best option for our customers later. Always check your knot (or carabiner) and belay setup before you climb. I don't like auto belays, but they are pretty well engineered The TRUBLUE Auto Belay requires annual service based on national safety standards. Really nice to pop in at 11 on a weekday and climb in an empty gym before lunch. With both of these methods, you're going to have the excess belay rope in a bag on your harness or on your back or, alternatively, in a bag hanging at the belay (when it is at the belay, you can treat it like a tag line sort of, but I don't want to get too much into solo aid systems). Feb 6, 2023 · Climbing auto belay: ultimate combination of safety and convenience, revolutionizing climbing experiences with automatic, reliable support. I only found out about the accident because a friend that works there told me about it a few May 24, 2022 · Still, the easy-to-use auto belay quickly becomes the friend of many rope climbers as it provides a safe and accessible way to climb long routes by yourself. They should perhaps take a quick course on basic physics and mathematics that teaches them how to use a tape measure to help them realize the autobelay doesn't actually protect them for the majority of that climb. Ensure that the gym you climb at gets their devices sent out for recertification at least annually and that the devices are CSA, ANSI and/or EN/CE certified. Home MembersOnline MembersOnline MembersOnline Very sporadic climber here. It's not much different from clipping in when using an auto-belayer. Forcing someone to belay with a GriGri when they are not yet comfortable is a terrible idea. Looked at movement which would be fairly close coming into Denver but no auto belays. I check it anyway, but if i forgot, i would want an auto locker. New harness belay loop? Safe or unsafe? Black Diamond Solution New to sport climbing, been lead/ top roping for the past month at least 4 times a week. Have him use an auto-locking belay device such as a Petzl GriGri and make sure he's anchoring in the gym. I think the key is look for folks casually climbing. We are here to help by bringing it all to one easy-to-use community. Is that a thing here? My current gym has a mix of both and it's great for days I don't have anyone to climb with. Any feedback would be appreciated thank you! Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. Reply r/climbing • r/climbing • r/climbing • r/climbing • r/climbing • r/climbing • r/climbing • r/climbing • r/climbing • r/climbing • r Hi everyone, I'm moving to the area soon and would love to find a rock gym with auto belays. Belay System Inspection, Care and Maintenance Both belay systems need to be properly inspected and maintained. This lawsuit really amped up the conversation. I know 100s of climbers in person, and not a one of them has a problem with auto belays, but go to an online forum and the minority makes their voices heard. Auto belays aren’t any more fallible than anything else. Purchase a day pass and rental gear, get a 5-10 minute orientation on how to use the Auto-Belays safely, and away you go! Day Pass Pricing The first (and so far only) time I climbed on an auto-belay, someone gave me tip of climbing up to bouldering height and then jumping or letting myself fall. At the least be sure to have other climbers around when she’s belaying you. There were probably 9 routes or so and some looked really challenging! After all, you don't know if the person asking for the belay actually knows how to lead climb or if he does, is a safe climber. If you do clip it to your belay loop, you climb, it reels up, you come back down safely. Or how sport climbers thread through the anchor and clip a loop knot on a bight to their belay loop when lowering off after leading. S. When I go with a friend and we belay each other, that's fine. The installation cost for each system is the same. Magnetic Auto-Belays Do you recall the iconic rule of magnetism? Opposites attract and likes repel. Climbing gym question Is there any good climbing gyms in the area with auto belays installed? I go climbing alone 90% of the time and don’t wanna have to relay on someone else all the time. Does user error occur when a person belays instead of an auto belay, yes but it is substantially less enough to merit the removal of auto belays imo. I know about the bouldering spots around but find top rope more fun. Hey Climbers! I started going to my local climbing a few weeks ago and after mastering the bouldering wall I now want to take on the auto belay wall. However, as with anything that people rely on to keep them safe, it is important to understand how auto belays work, how the technology varies between different brands, and what risks and safety considerations you should be aware of before purchasing, installing, or using an auto belay. but I don't know if they're intended for regular usage. I can imagine that this can happen a lot when doing hard dynamic moves so I'm wondering: what do people do to avoid that? I'm quite new to auto-belay so sorry if it's a stupid question. But when I use the auto-belay, it's hard for me to trust it. I can't think of a safe and or sane way to have a prussik tended by the belayer. Auto belay will definitely continue to improve your top rope climbing if you can't go with your partner so just go for it. Thanks!! We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Movement doesn’t have any auto belays but as someone mentioned, it’s relatively easy to find a climbing partner. Actually very lucky. even if the cause of the accident was failure to use the auto-belay altogether. I tried to take deep breaths, starting from somewhere low, but I just simply can’t…. Anyone know of a gym in Orange County that has auto belays ? I've been to sender one but they only have them in the kids section Auto belays limit what routes you can climb (those that have an auto belay installed). Nicros. This is where I end up going to most. There is no case where you can not not be tied in. Found an auto belay system in your rock climbing gym but not sure how to use it? Need a climbing buddy to belay you but no one was available? Or maybe you are too shy to ask a climber in the gym for some help? Enter the auto belay, a rock climber’s answer to rock climb solo safely (not free solo though). I think climbing partners facebook groups are a fantastic way to make yourself less introverted. Hi! I’m looking for a rock climbing gym with a lot of auto belays (4-5+) because unfortunately I don’t know many people who would like to go with me, and I’d like to go 2x a week. I took a leap and decided to accept. Oct 22, 2021 · Safe auto-belay climbing starts right where safe roped climbing starts — by checking your attachment point. At my gym we tie into belay, so the belay test consisted of demonstrating tying into the harness, explaining how we knew everything is secure and then the belayer clipping in properly. Do any of the gyms within an hour of sac have auto belay or am I forced to talk to strangers? When I went to clip through the Belay loop, I released the gates to close while the edge of belay loop was still near gate and the belay loop got caught between the T and the twisting action of the auto locker causing the fraying. That’s how magnetic auto-belays control your descent. As you progress you will almost always feel fatigued and at your limit when you’re nearing the top of a climb/boulder you find challenging. Or how lots of people TR solo and clip their progress capture device to the belay loop with a carabiner. Share Add a Comment Be the first to comment Nobody's responded to this post yet. Auto belays mechanically are probably safer than having a human belayer, they obviously require regular maintenance and inspections to operate safely. The auto belay is clipped to a plastic sheet at the bottom of the climb. It seems like using this as a lead belay, you'd miss out on the ability of the belayer to judge how you need to be caught to make your fall safe. ) It sounds very similar to some Auto belays & accidents; I could have sworn I read a convo about this on this sub. Possible solutions would be to service the auto belay so the recoil moves with the climber, or to change the carabiner type to one that can not open against someone’s body. If people let go of the wall and weight the auto belay quickly it stops a lot faster, but I have seen a lot of people that are nervous slowly weight the device and kinda freak out because it isn't catching them. Add your thoughts and get the conversation going. Last night I did Are auto belays generally safe like 99% of the time yes, but when things go wrong its tragic and traumatizing for everyone involved. If not, is pacific pipe the best place in the area? I thought the same thing and I realised it was kinda silly, it's the same for bouldering no one will judge you if you're a beginner, just be aware how many auto belay there are because other people will also use the auto belay. What should I expect? What equipment should I bring? The climbs are pretty long so I think I should bring some energy gels while on the wall. Seems cool for indoor climbing though, maybe some gyms will be using it in a few years. There’s a lot of auto belays at the two gyms I climb regularly. It seems like you are setting up some kind of spring loaded children wrecking ball system. I usually top rope with an experienced friend. I mean, sometimes you may see my normal belay partner and I doing laps and sweating like a hooker in church. That they rely on the principles of induction and magnetism, and that the break system is powered entirely by your weight due to gravity. Hi all, So I have read through a bunch of other threads on here about choosing a belay device, but I haven't found one that answers all of my questions yet. Auto belay laps. highly recommend. Belay System Costs An auto belay system is significantly more expensive than a traditional belay system because it is a very technical piece of safety equipment. Yes, all climbers should learn to give a safe belay with a GriGri. I've seen no… Maybe your college was different but I don't seem to remember any classes that even came close to being helpful in designing an auto belay system. checking my harness today and I saw this? Curious if it was user error, something to be expected, or poor manufacturing. A company that has been in the industry for some time and holds a few patents has filed another, "Auto Belay Safety System" (A. However, lately I've been doing quick sessions alone in my spare time using the auto belay system. Welcome to r/NorthAmericaRecalls This community is dedicated to keeping you up to date about recalls across the majority of North America. it has bouldering, lead, top rope, and auto-belays. In the comments I see a lot of people saying that they prefer non-breaking belay devices, which seems pretty obvious, but other people say that auto-breaking devices are safer, because they will usually break even if the belayer doesn't keep their hand on the brake. It's missing a key safety feature. It’s like anything with climbing on ropes, you just need to learn to trust the gear. A sub for women and non-binary climbers and their allies If you have any friends able to belay with consideration of your condition, I think that would definitely help a lot. Local gym in my area uses these auto belay systems, in the past two weeks they've failed 3 times. What cable specifically? Do we know? If cable means some cable inside the mechanics of the auto-belay device, then it seems like something that would be at the fault of the auto-belay and it could be understandable how this went unnoticed by the employees of the gym, although it still should have been caught in the inspection in February. They address the fears, benefits, and reliability of auto belays. Was unfocused and climbed a route alone without hooking into an auto belay, lucky i didn't kill myself. The auto-belay system has the cord clipped at an anchor point on the ground. A gym could just as easily fail to inspect there ropes, anchors and quick draws which could lead to an accident. I'm new to climbing, been going to a gym for 6 months and love it. You unclip it, and tie it to yourself If you don't clip it to yourself, it reels to the top, you look like an idiot. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I believe they do this once a month, and they’ll have flyers posted around the gym. Basically, my question, how would you approach people you don't know if you wanted a lead belay? 82 votes, 55 comments. I’m sure it takes some getting used to but I felt like the rope was pulling/holding me up some, so it wasn’t as good of a work out as bouldering. If you have a gym with an autobelay it may be a good opportunity for you to catch some practice falls with an auto-belay. Maybe surprisingly, bouldering also tends to have more socializing, as you chat while resting between attempts, while with sport climbing you're usually belaying while not climbing, and need to focus Dec 14, 2017 · Always descend feet first, using feet to fend off obstacles and prepare for landing. Auto belays are typically quite safe, i mean they use them at IFSC / Olympics and usually (as dumb as it sounds) the issue is people forgetting to clip themselves in properly. Jul 15, 2021 · Curious what you guys think about removing auto belays in response to what’s going on? Are they really that dangerous? Is there something we can do to make them safer? On an auto-belay there isn't the safety net of a vigilant partner, so I think the risks are higher. Not at all. I did a course on top rope, auto belay and bouldering and during the course I was able to rappel down but since then I’ve been getting more and more anxious when it comes to getting down. Half of the time I climb solo so I use them a lot. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. Not We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Auto-belays feel quite different from having a belayer, so I found it good to experience that at a height I would have felt ok falling to the ground. The community is very friendly, and the sets are definitely worth climbing. My auto belay supplier thinks it's a great idea (knew I was right) but says it may need about 90 - 150 auto belays so it may cost £225,000 - £350,000. I have never worked at a gym before so I’m not sure how common this is. I know bouldering is a good option for people who want to go alone, however I’m just curious to see if there are gyms like this here in TO. That’s not the problem however. The coil stays tensioned, and actually increases the farther away from the auto the person makes it. Simple stategies like the one suggested above; where the holds are covered until the auto-belay is clipped into the harness, are sensible and not too nannying in my view. However, I am looking to get Jul 21, 2016 · This story originally appeared in the October 2015 issue of our print edition. Oct 12, 2020 · Wondering what auto belays are? In this post, we detail what are the main types of auto belays, how they work and how to use them properly. The sheet covers the starting holds for hands and feet when the auto belay is clipped to it. Especially for new climbers stuck on the auto belays. I can and have. I've been going to the gym alone and using the auto belays or bouldering 2-3x per week, but it's getting boring pretty quickly. Our Auto-Belay systems will make getting up the 40 foot wall hassle-free! Designed to lower children and adults at a slow, controlled rate, these devices are safe and easy to use. New comments cannot be posted. It will help you get used to how I feels. C)The auto-belay and human belay setup are both perfectly safe when used individually (I would say that the auto-belay is safer due to not needing a good belayer to belay for your) Tips, go up. Recently with the death of a climber who was "using" the auto belay, climbit had done some brainstorming trying to figure out easy solutions to the issue of climbers not attaching themselves properly to the device itself. Are there any cheaper alternatives to an auto-belay which would let me practice climb when I'm by myself? Those things cost thousands. Plus, prussik alone would be dangerous when unweighting, as mentioned - once its disengaged, without an adequate belay (assuming the belayer is the one disengaging the prussik - never mind how they're supposed to unload it to Jan 24, 2023 · Auto belays are great for climbing roped walls without a partner and for training endurance or doing laps on climbs, as you don't need a human belayer. I always stay focused and go through the same set up each time to make sure I attach correctly to the auto belay. So when I'm climbing on the auto-belay wall, logically I know I'm perfectly safe, but trying to convince my brain of that in the moment is a whole other story. I lead quite a bit now and I still will downclimb if I'm close enough. It could probably decided soft vs. Don’t be One of the more widely sold auto belays in North America was recalled due to a design flaw that caused some of the internal parts to wear more quickly than anticipated. Let us explore some of the pros and cons of auto belays. The home of Climbing on reddit. 72K subscribers in the climbergirls community. Here are our in-depth reviews. I really want to be able to trust auto belay coz if I donf overcome the fear, I donf dare to do harder ones as I would be scared of falling on the auto belay. What are your guys thoughts? We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. The gyms host something called “Partner Project” which is an event for people to find climbing partners. To the point where last time I tried I just had to climb down as I couldn’t Stone gardens in Bellevue has 3 auto belays on various routes. I use an auto locker for my belay device because it is just an extra layer of safety. It's frustrating to hear people have the wrong conversation about whether auto-belays are worth the risk when it seems so easy to at least make it impossible to climb around them. Hi, I'm just curious to know which belay devices you (as a climber) prefer for sport climbing? I had no problem with my belayers having either an ATC or an assisted braking device such as Grigri, ATC pilot etc as long as the belayer feels safe and competent. Its a lot lot more than I thought it might cost Vertical World in Seattle has a good system. Obviously that’s the It’s the Reddit effect. Bloc has great bouldering routes, changed pretty regularly and I like the atmosphere there - big open space with mostly decent music playing and nice place to chill. I've seen fall arrest devices for roofers etc. Here’s my problem, that situation is annoying at best and seems very unsafe at worst. I was at the gym the day after the accident, and it was business as usual with all the auto belays in use, except the route where accident happened which I noticed was missing the auto belay. This is a reminder that you must stay focused on safety at all times while climbing, especially by yourself. walls are a bit annoying to smear and the holds are okay but the community is fantastic and the workers are awesome. Auto belay "TruBlue Speed" auto-belay fixed at the top of an indoor climbing route An auto belay (or autobelay) is a mechanical device for belaying in indoor climbing walls, in both training and competition climbing formats. Old gym in MA had tons of auto belays. I asked why there were only three auto belays there today instead of the usual five and he said that two of them failed inspection and have been getting fixed for the past few weeks and may not be back for a while longer. Any recommendations for gyms nearby that have good bouldering options or an abundance of auto belays? If anyone has any tips for areas to avoid generally in DC - especially from a solo female traveler view - I’d appreciate it, too! TRUBLUE Auto Belay - Beware. The relationship between you and your belayer is obviously very important, but that special someone isn’t always around when you want to crush lap after lap. Do people just use it to do easier climbs where there isn't a risk of falling sideways? Hey Climbers! I’m a fairly new climber deciding to take up the sport to improve my upper body and tackle a fear of heights. Set up above a 11 votes, 14 comments. I feel safe. The auto-belay slided left like one or two meters. The last time I climbed, I literally waited 25 minutes to climb because the two people using the auto belays (who were there together and could have chosen any other wall) just spent the entire time going up and down the auto belay routes repeatedly with no regard for anyone else around them. xsbfig vxm tcum fsmgmqq vftxk zgioba ubf brfyyn bywu tibaikh